jeudi 29 novembre 2012

Red Rocks: Power Failure (Oct. 29, 2012)

Power Failure 5.10b (3 pitches)

 On Monday November 29, we set out to climb Power Failure, a 3-pitch mixed route to the left of Unimpeachable Groping on Ginger Buttress. Although we had often hiked in to this area, it took us a while to (again) decipher the myriad of trails - we finally arrived at the base of the route after 2.5 hours of hiking. We had decided to wait until after the weekend to avoid crowds because this route also serves as the rappel line for Unimpeachable Groping and Ginger Cracks. Despite our best efforts, there were crowds on all the routes in the area (presumably due to Nevada Day) and there were even two parties ahead of us on Power Failure. Still, we had hiked in all this way, so we decided to give it a go. 

The first pitch is mixed bolts and gear and goes at 5.8 It's a nice way to ease into the climb. The second pitch starts straight up a finger crack with good protection before it traverses (bolts) a blank slab (crux) rightwards into a left leaning corner (gear). The last pitch continues up the left leaning crack to the top and it protects exclusively with gear. 

The first two pitches were the most worrisome as climbers above us were knocking down rocks and throwing their rappel ropes without warning. We continued to climb quickly in an attempt to finish the route and avoid the rappelling crowds from the neighboring climbs. We topped out in the nick of time and managed to race down to the car just as night fell. Another adventurous day!

Ginger Buttress is the pointy white pinnacle just right of centre

Power Failure climbs to the right of the black water streak

Roping in!

Fingers up!

Thumbs up!

Pitch 2 finger crack which leads into the left leaning corner

The shadow of Ginger Buttress falling across the desert meadow

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