During our time in Squamish we were blessed by dry weather and had the opportunity to get on several classic routes such as Diedre, Calculas Crack, Slot Machine, The Zip, Flying Circus, A Pitch in Time and Rainy Day Dream Away. Bill patiently spent a few solos days while I participated in an ACMG training course with Colin Moorhead. During my days with Colin, I had a chance to climb Skywalker, Hairpin and Angel's Crest. On these climbs I practiced acting as the "guide" and he took on the role of super-client. The learning and tricks I acquired during these hands-on days were priceless.
Angel's Crest was the highlight of our trip to Squamish. Angel's Crest, a 14-pitch ridge climb in the North Gully, had been on my "wish list" for a while, but I didn't expect to be able to complete, what I consider an ambitious route, during our trip here this fall.
As it turns out, I surprised myself by leading the entire route! It is a varied and enjoyable route, with short pitches and short well protected cruxes. The route covers a lot of ground and ends on the summit of the Chief's second peak.
|"The Acrophobes" Pitch 10|
As we reached the top of the route, I told Colin that this would be my first Squamish summit. And what a great way to reach it!
The following day as I was organizing my gear I realized that I forgot a cordalette and a carabiner on the summit of the route. Bill was keen to hike up to the summit for a retrieval mission. Below are photos from the Chief's second summit, with the town of Squamish in the background.
|Found the missing cordaletter and carabiner!|
During the hike we marveled at the thick rain-forest-like forest, the imposing trees and the colourful granite walls.
Too soon, it was time to head home. We had a fantastic time here and can't wait to return for more!
Til next time, Squamish!