samedi 14 juillet 2012

Verboten Corner (July 11)

Forbidden Corner 5.9, 310 m (1964)

One of the (many) good things about my project is that I'm finally getting on several Yamnuska classic routes that I always deemed "too much" before (i.e. too polished, too run out, too scary, too difficult, etc.). Forbidden Corner is one of those routes that instilled trepidation. Maybe it was the name of the route, maybe it was the account of the scary ninth pitch, or maybe it was the stories of people forced to bivouac on the route. Regardless, we decided to go see for ourselves. The crux of the climb, in a sense, was overcome by this decision.

We went on a quiet, sunny and warm Wednesday and had the route (and the wall) to ourselves. What a treat! Throughout the day we were pleasantly surprised at how the rock was nice, the movement fun and the rock not polished. Even the fear-instilling topo descriptions (e.g. at Pitch 4 "make an unlikely move right") were often easier and much more fun than imagined. Although, at times the climbing was also a bit more difficult than suggested


On top of the pinnacle on Pitch 9
The most fantastic of all the pitches is, of course, Pitch 9 with its infamous downclimb, traverse, pinnacle climb, followed by another downclimb and traverse. Broken down into smaller sections, this pitch became quite pleasant. The initial downclimb is easy and with a stem across you can quickly reach the pinnacle. I didn't have any big gear to protect the crack behind the pinnacle, so I waited until the top to clip the 2 pitons. From the top of the pinnacle, again you downclimb to a key foothold to the right of the pinnacle and use the two good handholds below the "bulge" (which looks more like a narrow down-sloping roof) to stem across to a good "foot ledge" below the two bolts above.

Two pitches later, we reached the end of the route, topped out on Yam and enjoyed a leisurely lunch under the bluebird sky. We both agreed that today was one of the nicest days on Yam!

1 commentaire:

Mamie a dit…

Yikes! Impressionnant!