dimanche 22 juillet 2012

Eeyore's Tail (July 18, 2012)

Eeyore's Tail 5.9 10 pitches (355 m)


Pitch 7 - After the traverse out right (Canmore in back)
Last Thursday Bill and I decided to head up to the East End of Rundle (EEOR) and climb a route called Eeyore's Tail. Unfortunately we were not able to locate a hand drawn topo of the climb and the varying text descriptions found in the Bow Valley book and from online sources created some confusion at the kitchen table. Nonetheless, we managed to find the base of the climb and were soon on our way. 


Things were progressing well and we were moving at a nice steady pace until  Pitch 5, the longer of the two crux pitches. Following what I thought was the "exposed diagonal break" to the right, I soon found myself about 4-5 m above the bolted station. I briefly entertained, but then quickly abandoned, the idea of down climbing to the station. Instead, I found a little nook to set up a belay and bring up Bill. Given that I overshot this pitch, the next 5.9 pitch was considerably shorter and somewhat easier (we are still wondering which move was considered the "sensational move"). 


From the top of Pitch 8, looking down at the moss
Climbers wishing to rappel the route must do so by Pitch 7. Climbers who continue on to Pitch 8 are committed to topping out on Mt. Rundle and hiking down the scrambling trail. Bill was keen on trying Pitch 8, the infamous chimney pitch, and he lead this one. 


When we climb on fractured rock, we affectionately call it "chossy". The more appropriate description for Pitch 8 would be "mossy". Indeed, most of the rock at the back and on the sides of the chimney was covered by a green moss,and at times, by a sheet of green algae. Hand and foot hold selection was severely limited! Luckily, the holds are big and the moves straightforward and we were able to safely surmount the chockstone roof at the top of the chimney.


Pitch 10 - At the start, below the chockstone
Pitch 9 consists of a 4th class walk up a scree slope. Although this sounds like an easy pitch, it is a scary affair with substantial rockfall hazard to the belayer. It ends at a piton at the base of the final chimney.


While the Pitch 10 chimney was not as lush and green as the previous one, it was still fairly moist and felt slippery at times. The interesting features on this pitch are the two chockstones behind which we climb. These chockstones give you the effort of popping through the top of the route to the final screen slope to the top of the cliffband.


View from the base of the Pitch 10 chimney
Given the marginal quality of the rock on the final three pitches, our recommendation would be to consider the Alternate Finish. From the station at the top of Pitch 7, the alternate route appears to be bolted, at least immediately from the station leaning left towards the corner/dihedral. 

Another option would be to rappel the route. The stations are generally rap bolts or bolts with a chain.


A final option: climb the route in a dryer season. Perhaps then the moss will be gone : -)


Bill on the top of Eeyore's Tail, with Ha Ling peak behind him

2 commentaires:

Mamie a dit…

Tout un terrain de jeu que vous avez! Xxx

cj a dit…

Hey friend! It's nice to drop in and catch up on some of your adventures. It looks like you are working well towards your goal. Go Ren Go!
xocj