|Pitch 7 - After the traverse out right (Canmore in back)|
Things were progressing well and we were moving at a nice steady pace until Pitch 5, the longer of the two crux pitches. Following what I thought was the "exposed diagonal break" to the right, I soon found myself about 4-5 m above the bolted station. I briefly entertained, but then quickly abandoned, the idea of down climbing to the station. Instead, I found a little nook to set up a belay and bring up Bill. Given that I overshot this pitch, the next 5.9 pitch was considerably shorter and somewhat easier (we are still wondering which move was considered the "sensational move").
|From the top of Pitch 8, looking down at the moss|
When we climb on fractured rock, we affectionately call it "chossy". The more appropriate description for Pitch 8 would be "mossy". Indeed, most of the rock at the back and on the sides of the chimney was covered by a green moss,and at times, by a sheet of green algae. Hand and foot hold selection was severely limited! Luckily, the holds are big and the moves straightforward and we were able to safely surmount the chockstone roof at the top of the chimney.
|Pitch 10 - At the start, below the chockstone|
While the Pitch 10 chimney was not as lush and green as the previous one, it was still fairly moist and felt slippery at times. The interesting features on this pitch are the two chockstones behind which we climb. These chockstones give you the effort of popping through the top of the route to the final screen slope to the top of the cliffband.
|View from the base of the Pitch 10 chimney|
Another option would be to rappel the route. The stations are generally rap bolts or bolts with a chain.
A final option: climb the route in a dryer season. Perhaps then the moss will be gone : -)
|Bill on the top of Eeyore's Tail, with Ha Ling peak behind him|